From the deep South to Southern Illinois

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buy this photo This masculine tablescape begins with a camouflaged print tablecloth, made from decorator fabric. Each place setting tops a basket-weave pewter charger. The Wild Wings dinnerware is a reproduction of notable wildlife painter Jim Killen's work 'Faithful Friends — Black Lab.' The Cambridge flatware pattern is also Labrador and is brushed stainless, a look similar to pewter. The faux pewter bread and butter plates come from a collection of Wendell August coasters, featuring wildlife engravings used by this forge since the 1920s. (DEBBIE MOORE / FOR THE SOUTHERN)

For several years, I had the opportunity to serve as a member of the Federal Mississippi River Parkway Commission. The commission's meetings took place in communities all along the river. It was truly an enjoyable experience to get to know scores of people who live and work in regions similar to mine.

I love to describe the Mississippi River as a ribbon, flowing through the lives of people just like those of us in Southern Illinois. We find peace in our views of this body of water, and we are enamored by its strength. We fear its ability to spread beyond its banks. Whether we live near the headwaters in Minnesota, in our heartland or at the mouth of the Delta, we are hard-working, sincere people who are interested in improving the economic impact of Mississippi River commerce.

Our commonalities are amazing, and one of the most noticeable to me was that we all eat and cook the same way. Our recipes might have different names or a different ethnic flair, but sizzling catfish fillets come to the table in virtually the same way - with slaw, hushpuppies, raw onion and hot sauce.

Perhaps the most common theme along the river is the love of wild game. Southern Illinoisans know the importance of the Mississippi Flyway. The flocks of waterfowl are met by the flocks of hunters who live in or visit our region each year to fill their freezers with this gourmet fare.

To get "local" duck, you have to be a hunter or know someone who is and is generous; it is illegal to sell wild duck.

I've prepared wild duck in a couple dozen ways, but I'm sharing one of my favorite recipes, which I obtained from friends in Baton Rouge. The Creole recipe is from Louisiana, but the duck was bagged at Colin Cain's Little Grassy Hunt Club in Union County.

Start with a wedge salad topped with warm brie cheese salad dressing. I topped mine with crunchy Fuji apples from Cobden's Flamm's Orchard (still in my crisper from my November visit) and Southern Illinois' own pecans from the Lindsey family, south of Murphysboro.

Make sure you put hot, homemade biscuits on the table, because you won't want to miss a Creole drop of this wintertime favorite.

DEBBIE MOORE is a dedicated foodie and the executive director of the Carbondale Convention & Tourism Bureau.

Warm Brie Salad Dressing

6 ounces Brie cheese

2 Tablespoons olive oil

2 minced shallots

2 Tablespoons Dijon mustard

¼ cup red wine vinegar

Salt and pepper to taste

Remove the rind from the cheese and cut into small cubes.

Sauté the shallots in the olive oil and add the cheese, whisking until melted. Quickly add the mustard, vinegar, salt and pepper.

Continue to whisk until well blended. Pour over wedges of iceberg lettuce and garnish with sliced Fuji apples, pecans and a grind of fresh pepper.

Southern Yeast Biscuits

This big batch of biscuits makes 3 dozen medium biscuits. The dough can be stored in the refrigerator for up to five days. It can be cut into doughnuts and fried, rolled into cinnamon rolls, or used for fantastic biscuits.

In a large bowl, sift 5 cups flour, 3 tablespoons baking powder, 3 tablespoons sugar and 1 teaspoon of salt. Dissolve 1 package of active dry yeast in ½ cup warm water. To the dry mixture, add 2 cups milk, 2/3 cup vegetable oil and the yeast/water mixture.

Mix well, cover and let rise for at least 30 minutes or overnight in the refrigerator. Cut the number of biscuits desired and bake at 400 degrees for 15 minutes. Store the remaining dough in the refrigerator.

Wild Duck Creole Style

1 wild duck, dressed

1 stick butter

1 sweet onion, chopped

1 rib celery, chopped

1 large shallot, minced

½ cup chopped ham

1 large turnip, peeled and cubed

1 pound small red potatoes

8 ounces whole button mushrooms

2 cups chopped carrots

¼ teaspoon dried thyme

1 teaspoon dried parsley

2 bay leaves

2 sprigs fresh rosemary

2 cloves fresh garlic, sliced

¼ teaspoon coarse salt

Pepper to taste

Cut the duck into pieces at the joint, removing excess pockets of fat. In a heavy stock pot, melt the butter and sauté the onion, celery and shallots.

When the vegetables begin to turn transparent, add the pieces of duck and brown them over a medium heat.

Remove the meat and vegetables and de-glaze the pan with ¼ cup dry red wine. Add back the meat and vegetables and enough water to cover the meat.

Cover and simmer for 15 minutes.

Add all the other ingredients and return to a simmer for about one hour. The meat should be tender, but not falling off the bone.

If desired, thicken the pan broth with a cornstarch slurry just before serving.

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