Spring bulb planting time is right around the corner. Daffodil (Narcissus), tulip (Tulipa), hyacinth (Hyacinthus), snowdrop (Galanthus), siberian squill (Scilla), crocuses (Crocus) and winter aconite (Eranthis hyemalis) are just a few of the spectacular choices that are available. Here are a few recommendations to help insure continued success of your bulbs year after year.

Good soil drainage is important. In general, the typical soil found in southern Illinois has a high clay content. This clay-type soil can be detrimental to bulb growth. Add organic matter and work it into the soil for best results.

Planting spring-flowering bulbs at the appropriate depth is critical for success. A good rule of thumb is to plant the bulb two to three times deeper than its height. If applicable, plant the pointy end of the bulb up.

Bulbs should be planted when nighttime temperatures are between 40 and 50 degrees. Be sure to plant the bulbs approximately six weeks before the ground freezes to allow for sufficient rooting. After planting the bulbs, water them thoroughly. Once rooted, bulbs go through a natural change that will keep them from freezing over the winter. As an extra precaution, apply a light layer of mulch after the ground has frozen to help keep a consistent soil temperature. But, do not apply mulch over the smaller bulbs.

Fertilization is not needed the first year because the bulb has enough food stored for the spring bloom. If you do feel the need to fertilize, thoroughly mix an all-purpose fertilizer such as 10-10-10 into the soil. Never put the fertilizer directly into the planting hole; it may burn the roots. For established bulbs that return year after year, spread an organic or slow-release fertilizer on top of the soil after the flowers are spent. A granular fertilizer like 5-10-5 or 5-10-10 is a good bet. Follow all fertilizer application rates according to the label specifications.

Squirrels, raccoons and other small animals may try to dig up and eat your bulbs after planting. A piece of chicken wire can be placed over the bulbs before or after the mulch is applied to prevent rodent damage. Just make sure you remove the wire, or other protective covering, in the spring once the bulbs show signs of emerging.

After bulbs are done blooming, the spent flowers should be removed to promote continued bulb growth and bud set, especially where tulips and daffodils are concerned. If the spent flowers are not removed, the plant will form seed pods, thus using energy that would otherwise go toward bulb growth. That being said, do leave the foliage alone until it naturally dies back. Allowing the foliage to ripen produces food reserves that are stored in the bulb. It is this stored food that produces the following year's blooms.

Spring-flowering bulbs add tremendous color to the garden. Depending upon the type of bulb, the season begins in February and lasts into April. When planting, think in terms of the visual impact they make. Plant a large number of spring bulbs to form drifts, or small clumps of three to five to get the best display. Be creative and plant bulbs in a random pattern. Plant large bulbs such as daffodils and tulips within 6 inches or less of each other; plant smaller bulbs such as crocuses and snowdrops 3 inches or less apart. Bulbs should also be planted in a location that receives partial to full sun.

Planting bulbs requires a lot of work. However, after a long, cold winter few things announce the arrival of spring like these beauties in full bloom. Just keep that image in mind when you are planting this fall.

TONY KAHTZ has a doctorate degree and works with the University of Illinois Extension office throught the Land of Lincoln AmeriCorps program.